Nature Has A Rhythm. So Does Your Hair.
Timing Matters
Anagen - Growth Phase
Period of active growth when the hair root cells rapidly divide in the matrix building length onto the hair shaft. Hair is at its greatest depth in Anagen, thus in the most ideal state for effective electrolysis treatments.
Catagen - Transition Phase
The hair stops growing in Catagen because the follicle releases it from its blood supply. This forms what is known as a club hair & leads to the next stage of hair growth. Catagen is the shortest of all growth phases.
Telogen - Resting Phase
The hair rests in the follicle until it is pushed out by the growth of a new hair. Pulling out a hair in this stage will reveal a solid, hard white material at the root. Around 10-15% of hairs are in this phase.
Exogen - Shedding Phase
The hair rests in the follicle until it is pushed out by the growth of a new hair. Pulling out a hair in this stage will reveal a solid, hard white material at the root. Around 10-15% of hairs are in this phase.
Like ocean waves, hair arrives in repeating cycles—not every hair is growing at the same time. While one group of hairs is actively growing, countless others remain dormant beneath the skin, waiting for their turn.
Electrolysis permanently disables each follicle during its active growth phase. As new hairs naturally enter that phase, they are treated until every active follicle in the area has been addressed.
When that process is complete, those follicles cannot grow hair again.
If new hair appears years later, it is because hormonal changes awakened follicles that had never been active before—not because previously treated hair has returned.
Skin Structure
Understanding what goes on beneath the skin’s surface is important to the electrologist. In order to be successful, the electrologist’s insertion must be very precise at the point to which the probe enters the follicle at the skin’s surface and the depth of that insertion.
The goal of every electrologist is to destroy the hair papilla (bulb) and blood source located at the bottom of the follicle to prevent future hair growth using one, or a combination of, the three electrolysis modalities; thermolysis, the blend, and galvanic.
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The epidermis is the skin's protective outer layer. During electrolysis, the sterile probe passes through the natural follicle opening without puncturing or cutting the epidermis.
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The dermis contains the hair follicles, sebaceous glands, blood vessels, nerves, and connective tissue. This is where electrolysis permanently disables the hair growth cells.
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The deepest layer of skin, composed primarily of fat and connective tissue. It cushions the body and supports larger blood vessels and nerves beneath the dermis.
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The visible portion of the hair above the skin's surface. While it helps guide the electrologist during treatment, the hair shaft itself is not responsible for future hair growth.
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The portion of the hair located beneath the skin within the follicle. It anchors the hair and extends toward the structures responsible for producing new hair.
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A tiny tube-like structure in the skin that surrounds and supports the hair root. Electrolysis treats each follicle individually to permanently disable its ability to produce new hair.
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The matrix contains specialized cells that divide rapidly to create new hair. Successful electrolysis permanently destroys these growth cells to prevent future hair production.
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Located at the base of the follicle, the hair papilla supplies nutrients and growth signals through its rich blood supply. It plays a critical role in nourishing the hair as it develops.
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This gland produces sebum (natural oil), which helps lubricate both the skin and hair. Sebaceous glands are not targeted during electrolysis.
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A small muscle attached to each follicle that causes the hair to stand upright when you're cold or emotional—commonly known as "goosebumps." It is not affected by electrolysis.
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Sweat glands help regulate body temperature by producing perspiration. They are separate from the hair follicle and remain unaffected during treatment.
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Tiny sensory nerves surround the follicle and allow you to feel touch, pressure, and temperature. These nerves explain why some hairs may feel more sensitive during treatment than others.
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Small arteries deliver oxygen and nutrients to the skin and surrounding tissues, supporting healthy skin function and healing.
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Veins carry blood back toward the heart, helping remove waste products from the skin and surrounding tissues.
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The layer of fat beneath the skin cushions and insulates the body while providing support for blood vessels and nerves.
source: Electrolysis, Thermolysis and the Blend: The Principles and Practice of Permanent Hair Removal; by Arthur Ralph Hinkel, and Richard W. Lind, B.A., M.A.
Hair + Skin Anatomy
Skin Characteristics
Observation is Key. An electrologist’s ability to observe the hair and skin’s external characteristics is, at first glance, the only way to gauge how to treat the follicle properly. It’s equally important for the client to understand it for themselves so they can do what’s necessary before and after treatments to ensure they keep their skin and hair in what we call the electrolysis sweet spot. The sweet spot is when the skin and hair are under the best conditions possible for the most effective electrolysis treatment with the least amount of discomfort.
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People’s pain sensitivity varies. The higher a client’s pain tolerance, or threshold level, the more equip they are to receive large amounts of electrolysis; therefore, the client with a higher pain threshold is the most ideal.
As a rule of thumb, the closer the treatment area is to the center line of the body, the more sensitive it is. Also, older clients are more tolerant of pain than younger clients because the skin is tougher.
A client who has been regularly lasered, waxed, threaded, tweezed or sugared in a specific treatment area will have a higher threshold for pain than those who haven’t.
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The softness or loose factor generally only impacts the ease at which the probe is inserted into the follicle. The more firm or taut the skin, the easier the insertion becomes. Therefore, an electrologist will often ask the client to help pull and stretch the skin around the area being treated.
The chin and forehead are examples of firm areas. The underchin and armpit are examples of soft, loose areas.
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The depth at which an electrologist must insert the probe to reach the bottom of the follicle during treatment is obviously greater in thicker skin.
In lighter skinned clients with thin skin, the electrologist can see the bottom of the follicle making it easier to treat. However, thin skin does have its disadvantages; in that, reddening becomes visible more quickly and gives the appearance that the treatment is more intense than it would appear on thicker skin.
Note: thickness of the hair is NOT correlated to the thickness of the skin.
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Moisture content increases with depth. So, if electrical current is required to destroy hair permanently, then the more moist the skin is, the more effective the current is where the skin comes in contact with the probe tip. Therefore, it’s important to stay hydrated and keep the skin moisturized while going through electrolysis treatments.
Note: Moisture content refers to water content in the skins cells and not related to oiliness. The next section speaks to oil content specifically.
In adults the corners of the mouth, the armpit, and skin covering the skin is very moist with no oiliness present. At the other extreme are areas that are very dry, such as the chin, lower legs, elbows, and knees. All other areas of the body range in moisture content somewhere within these extremes.
Older clients tend to have less moist skin than younger clients. Differences in moisture content require special precautions and techniques.
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The oil characteristic has little relevance to the electrologist except that a layer of oil on the skin does prevent the escape of moisture, thereby preserving moisture content. A naturally oily skin may be evidence of moisture but the client’s application of oil or cream to the skin to prevent dryness can fool the electrologist into thinking their skin is naturally oily. A layer of oil must be maintained over the course of many days before moisture is restored to otherwise dry skin.
Most naturally oily skin types are moist unless alcohols, astringents and drying acne prescriptions are being used to combat the oily condition. When oily skin is observed it may also be true that the skin is also moist, but this is NOT guaranteed.